The question I will be choosing to answer in my essay is, ‘Is there a reason or reasons why photographers choose to photograph toys, especially model figures, in their images?’
I will be researching into why photographers photograph toys, if there is a meaning behind it. I am also doing this reasearch to try and find out why I enjoy photographing toys, I think I have a rough idea why, because I can manipulate the images to how I want them to look, but I would like to understand this in more depth. I will be looking at a variety of photographers, starting with David Levinthal who inspired my college photography working with model dinosaurs to recreate Jurrassic Park, and even looking at flickr photographers who use Lego figures to create a scene. My research will take me through many unknown photographers, but I am hoping to discover new photographs and reasons as to why people photograph toys.
Photographers to research
Add a close-up lens to the front of a normal lens.
This is the easiest way to get close-ups, the quality may suffer, particularly with the higher magnification close-up lenses but it is the easy-to-carry, cheap and cheerful way to get results. The equipment consists of filter like screw-in lenses that go on the front of the lens. Often they are called “dioptres” and may be called numbers like +1, +2, +4. The +number refers to the dioptre measurement of the lens and the higher the number, the greater the magnification possible. The dioptre measurement is the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens measured in metres. Therefore a +1 dioptre lens is 1 metre focal length, a +2 is 500mm and a +4 is 250mm. These add-on lenses are available in a variety of filter sizes and qualities. If you don’t wish to get heavily involved then a set of uncoated close-up lenses to fit your favourite lens is the way to go. Coated close-up lenses cost more and will yield a better image, and two element close-up lenses (much more expensive) will give better results particularly with longer tele type lenses.
The effect of these close-up lenses increases as you add them together. The +1 and the +2 screwed together will yield +3. Be aware that although you will get greater magnification, you will also get greater image deterioration. If you do try this the usual method is to put the strongest one closest to the lens then the lesser one. For the above coupling you would screw the +2 on first then add the +1 to that, then any filters or lens hoods.
The close-up lenses have more effect on longer focal lengths. Attached to a 50mm lens on the camera the +4 close-up will yield closer focussing but nothing amazing. Try a +1 close-up lens on a 200mm or 300mm lens and the effect is much more exciting.
This situation makes the decision of what thread size close-up set to buy a bit more interesting. If you intend to be mildly involved with macro using close-up lenses then it would be best to buy the set that fits your 70-200 or 75-300 lens then buy adapter rings to make the close-up lenses fit your other lenses with maybe smaller thread sizes. They are called step-up rings and are much cheaper than buying a second set of close-up lenses.
Even though I own macro lenses and bellows I also own a +2.9 coated double element close-up lens (expensive) that with the appropriate step-up rings will fit nearly all of the lenses that my wife and I own. The one close-up lens and the few lightweight step up rings take only a small space in the camera bag for those times I don’t want to carry the proper macro lens.
Upside. They are relatively cheap, are light and don’t take up much room in the camera bag and the normal camera internal TTL light metering takes them automatically into account and no adjustments are required.
Downside. More stuff added to light path adds more optical problems, flare, distortion etc. If used on tele lenses you really need to have the more expensive double element models that are also hard to find. The more powerful the close-up lens, the worse the image. Try to use around f/8 or f/11 on the lens to make the best of the situation.
I found this article here.
I was really interested in reading this article, because I now want to learn about how to use different photographic equipment to achieve new results. I want to try out many different things for my final year, and gain a lot more experience in different fields of photography.
For my fashion shoot I have chosen to go with a gothy theme. This will make the dress appeal to diffent fashion circles instead of just high fashion. I am going to have my model wearing black feather wings so I need her to pose to the side to show off the wings. I am having a black backdrop so I need to shine the light on the wings to make them stand out.
This is how I would like te model to look down, away from the camera as if she is all alone. I would want my modle to pose more to the side than this but I did like how the modle in this photograph is looking down.
I want my photographs to look gothic and dark. I chose this image as inspiration because I love how fierce te pose and her face is. My images will have a darker background but I want them to have this kind of atmosphere.
18 year old from Germany called Bloodymarie, find her on Deviantart.
Once my studio shoot is over I would love to do a location shoot, using an alternative modle and gothic clothes. I like the atmosphere this image shows and how it also showcases the dress amazingly.